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| A piston right manufacturer that does not recommend using synthetic for break-in: When first starting your engine to ensure proper ring seating, do not allow the engine to idle for long periods at a time. It is a good idea to mildly load the engine as soon as you can. Highway driving is a good way to properly seat the rings quickly. Do not idle the engine as idling does not break in any engine. Total Seal ® DOES NOT recommend the use of synthetic oils during break-in. After 2000-3000 miles on the street, or one night racing on the track, the rings should be adequately seated so that any oil you prefer can then be used
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| I bumped into this post so I thought I would clarify. Bel-Ray does manufacture their own lubricants in a building in NJ. I think it is called Wall, NJ. Like many other "specialty" lube guys they buy the base stocks from somebody like Exxon then add all the additives etc to form a product. I visited a tent of theirs at a race in CA and they gave me some really good info on why to use specific chains lubes on my chain with o-rings.
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Junior Member
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Well I glad this subject came up. I ride an 02 Wing and use "Spectro
Golden 4" SEA 10W40. This meets "A.P.I." SL Quality Requirements.
I don't know too much about this kind of thing but this oil is recommended by the Shop that does my Maintenance work.
Any Ideas ??
caseysanta 
Ride a lot, ride safe
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Casey - today's motor oils (both dino and synthetic) are far superior to the old oils. I don't think oil is an issue as long as you use one that is recommended by the bike manufacturer and change it on a regular basis.
Forget about leaving it in for 7,000 or 9,000 miles. At that point, even if the oil hasn't broken down, it is probably full of foreign particles and contaminants. Plus, I have a distrust for $5.00 paper element oil filters.
I read a study somewhere that stated motor oils see a significant reduction in viscosity in the first 300 to 500 miles. After that, the viscosity remains fairly stable for the next few thousand miles. I'm not sure if that translates into using 20/50 in place of 10/40 because after the first 300 miles it will turn into 10/40. I do know this: changing the oil and oil filter is probably the easiest thing you can do when working on your bike. So, for me, taking 15 to 20 minutes (5 minutes to change the oil, 10 to 15 minutes to clean up the inevitable spill) is cheap insurance and great for your peace of mind.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
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Quote - Alex: "BTW, how many oil related engine failures has anyone seen?"
Unless it is from a lack of oil pressure, today's small engines are far superior to the old ones. However, riding with dirty oil on a consistent basis will result in shortening the longevity of your engine's life. Could that be the reason you see riders with 300,000 miles on their bikes and other riders with the same bike need a rebuild at 70,000?
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
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Junior Member
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Thanks for the info Rottie. As I said I use "Spectro" Golden 4 10W40.
I change oil and filter every 3 to 4,000 miles.
This oil is a "Semi-Synthetic". What ever the Semi is.
Sounds like being a little bit pregnant.
Again thanks for the info.
caseysanta
Ride a lot, ride safe
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