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I just attempted a valve adjustment. I set everything as I was supposed to but there is a lot of noise from the heads. I rechecked 3X and I can only guess that I have them too loose. Will I damage anything riding with them too loose for a short while until I can get it to the dealer to be done properly? Or is it normal for them to sound as if they were too loose for a few miles? It is an 06 C-50.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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Senior Member
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I always use consecutive sized three feeler gauges when doing valves.
The middle one is the size the gap's supposed to be. The lower one should let you feel a slight tick when you jiggle the rocker arm, the middle one should slide in with minimal resistance and no tick and the larger one should only go in with force and really drag between the valve and rocker arm. The other thing that can be a PITA is when you tighten the lock nut you may be altering the adjustment a hair. Recheck the clearances and adjust again if needed.
It may be just a tad loose. Does the tick go away after the engine is warmed to running temps? That means the gap is closing.
As far as damage I think it depends upon how far out they are. Every time the lobe comes around it smacks the rocker arm face. OTOH if they're too tight the valves get held open and that can affect heat transfer and therefore cooling. Not good on the exhaust valve.
Where abouts in Bama are you?
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I am just outside Birmingham small community called Remlap. I have not let it warm up. I just cranked it and after the first 2 try's it seemed toooo loose and noisy. After the third attempt a lot quieter but don't sound right. I have not riden it at all I only let it idle for a few minutes.
Wishing now I had waited, I really need the bike tomorrow, I need to go and see dad before he has surgury mid afternoon tomorrow. the bike has only 3600 miles on it but I did not have valves checked at 600 miles. maybe my local dealer can get to it first thing in AM.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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quote:
Originally posted by C-50 Rider
I am just outside Birmingham small community called Remlap. I have not let it warm up. I just cranked it and after the first 2 try's it seemed toooo loose and noisy. After the third attempt a lot quieter but don't sound right. I have not riden it at all I only let it idle for a few minutes.
Wishing now I had waited, I really need the bike tomorrow, I need to go and see dad before he has surgury mid afternoon tomorrow. the bike has only 3600 miles on it but I did not have valves checked at 600 miles. maybe my local dealer can get to it first thing in AM.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
If you ride it they'll have to let it cool. Got a trailer to haul it on?
I'm not familiar with Remlap. Was born in Birmingham and moved to Tuscaloosa shortly thereafter. We used to go down to Mobile and fly kites.
Good luck to your pop on the surgery front. Hope it's none too serious.
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New Member
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No trailer, guess I could get it into the back of the truck.
Remlap is just north of Bham towards Oneonta. I will probably have to take the cage this morning, Dad found out Friday he has colon cancer. they believe they can get it all, but wont know for sure untill they get inside.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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Often, the first valve adjustment causes a little more noise as the valves had tightened up just a bit by recessing into the valve seat and were operating with minimal clearances. After adjustment they were opened up a bit and make more moise.
I suggest using the maximum allowable clearance as it allows the longest mileage between adjustments and usually doesn't cause too much noise or clatter. The valves spend more time against the seat, shed more heat into the head and in general last longer, especially the exhaust valve.
The valve noise should be even and sound like lots of mice busily typing away on manual typrwriters!
I think the C-50 engine is the older Intruder engine. I had a 700 cc version and you could always hear the valves a bit.
Gonpher Coughie.
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quote:
Originally posted by rnielsen
Often, the first valve adjustment causes a little more noise as the valves had tightened up just a bit by recessing into the valve seat and were operating with minimal clearances. After adjustment they were opened up a bit and make more moise.
I suggest using the maximum allowable clearance as it allows the longest mileage between adjustments and usually doesn't cause too much noise or clatter. The valves spend more time against the seat, shed more heat into the head and in general last longer, especially the exhaust valve.
The valve noise should be even and sound like lots of mice busily typing away on manual typrwriters!
I think the C-50 engine is the older Intruder engine. I had a 700 cc version and you could always hear the valves a bit.
Actually it is the Volusia 800 they started calling them C-50's in 04 when they added FI, I have learned that you can't adjust then crank for a few minutes then re-adjust. The noise I have now is too much (sounds like a 350 about to sling a rod or with a spun main bearing), so I will try again today with the bike dead cold. The second and third time I attempted I found easier ways to get at the valves I just did not have the bike cold.
Thanks for all the advise, I just wisj=hed the valves were easier to get to.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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c-50 rider
if you are still having difficulty:
-are the valve adjusters a simple screw type with a locking nut?
-does the crank want to turn from the valve setting position unless held in place by a wrench or something?
- are you using a amnual?
remove the spark plugs so that cylinder compression does not want to move the crank.
i wouldnt bother with a cam chain adjustment till 6000m. if you already tried the cam chain adjustmnet, that might be the source of all your noise. re-do the cam chain adjustment first while using the tied off wrench/no spark plugs method to keep the crank where it is supposed to be.
rotate the crank in its normal running direction only. when the crank gets to the valve adjusting spot, does the crank stay there or does it want to turn to another 'at rest' position? if it wants to turn, tie the wrench off to something with a bit of cord so that the crank does not move from the valve adjusting position. now, you can adjust the appropriate valves for that crank position.
if the valve adjuster is a simple screw tappet with a locking nut:
-check the clearence first, you might get lucky and not need to adjust it
- is your clearence a specific number, like .002? or is it a range, like .002-.004?
if it is a specific number like .002; then
-.0015 ought to go in there pretty easy.
-.002 should have a slight drag going in and out. the kind of light drag as if it was between your fingertips hard enough to leave a print/smudge without much resistance as the feeler gauge is withdrawn.
-.003 should NOT go in there without a fight if it goes in at all.
if the number is a range, like .002-.004:
-if .002 does not fit, reset the valve clearence to .003. thus, .002 fits easily and .004 doesnt fit at all
-if .004 or larger fits, reset the valve to .003 and check that .004 does not fit.
it will take a few completions to get facile with the process. see if there is an old guy in your neighborhood who is used to doing stuff like this. give him/her a liquid refreshment and ask 'em to check the feel on one of your valves. maybe get 'em to do one and check the feel for yourself so that you know what its supposed to be like.
back in the old days, honda valve adjusters used to tear up feeler gauges like shredding aluminium foil. if your feeler gauge gets torn up, you can get a box of a specific size from auto supply places, and industrial supply houses.
carry on, and let us know how it goes.
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
nobody rides half as well as they know how.
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Got it done last night. Either my timing marks are off of my eyesight (parallax error) probably. I turned it over untill I saw the exhaust valve rocker relax then set it, turned again until the intake relaxed set it. then repeated for the front cylinder.
I hope doing it this way is OK.
The adjustment is a range .003-.005 intake and .007-.009 exhaust. I set them to .004 intake and .008 exhaust that way off a little either way I'm still in specs.
The time when each set of either exhaust or intake is relaxed is much larger than when both intake and exhaust are relaxed at the same time. I believe I was missing the time both were relaxed so one was still open slightly so my adjustment wasn't done when the valves were relaxed. It seems to be correct now, slightly more noise than before I adjusted the first time but I expect that since according to owners manual they needed to be adjusted several miles ago. They were probably too tight.
On a side note, when I was frustrated and ready to give up I called the dealer for a price to have it done, he said he'd check with his mechanic and call me back. He never did. I will let the owner know he missed a service charge by not getting back to me. Glad he didn't allowed me to do it one more time. Feels good to be able to do it, not to mention save 150-200$ in the process. If all goes OK I believe next time I'll do it the way I did last night, easier to ensure valves in a relaxed state. I don't mind extra step of turning motor for each set of valves.
thanks for all the advise,
chris
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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Senior Member
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Typically each cylinder is done at top dead center on its compression stroke.
With valve covers off and rotating the motor the way it's supposed to turn (plugs out for ease) using a wrench/socket on the flywheel you can watch the valves and figure it out. Watch for the exhaust valves to open, then the intake valves open. Once the intake valves close you're on compression as the cylinder is now sealed and the piston is on it's way up. Watch the timing marks, the F will come up first along with the advance marks, then the T should come around & that's where you want to be. Repeat procedure for the other cylinder.
EDIT You did check the clearances after tightening the locknuts on each rocker arm didn't you. See my previous post and ibafran's better written one on the whole go/no go feeler gauge bit.
You're right about the dealer, the owner/manager/service manager should know. OTOH it could have just been an oversight due to distraction of some sort.
Hope your pop is recovering well.
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