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When is the right time to change to synthetic? I've heard people say to wait untill after 2 oil changes and others say do it at the 1st change.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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I always change to synth on the third change.
1st change at 600 miles
2nd change at 2000 miles
3rd change at 4000 miles to synthetic.
Truth is my new bike I have considered not using synthetic at all. I have yet to wear any bike out before I sell or trade.
It would be interesting to see a study on how much the oil really effects engine life.
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
Goldwing 03
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
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Junior Member
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Mobil 1's web site <www.mobil1.com> has addressed that subject in their FAQ section in the past.
Synthetics are NOT more slippery than regular oils and can be used from the get go. Porches and Corvettes come from the factory with them in the crankcase.
I've been using Mobil 1 15W-50 since 1983 in a Gold Wing, a Pacific Coast, a BMW R80, a Nighthawk 750, a Kawasaki W650 and my current ride, a Suzuki Bandit 1200.
Changed the oil early in every case, usually before 600 miles. Never had any problems with 5-6000 mile oil change intervals over the past twenty plus years, which is a couple of changes per season of mostly road touring riding.
I do send oil to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis once in a while and base the long drain intervals on the results of that testing. Plenty of Total Base Number (TBN) left even after 9K on the Bandit. TBN is related to the oil's ability to resist acidity and stay in the engine for long drain periods.
The need for extended mileage before switcing to a synthetic is an old wive's tale in my opinion.
Gonpher Coughie.
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I've just started using a synthetic in my 750 Vulcan this past season.The reason, better resistance to break down. I have used Mobil 1 in ALL of my cars since 1984. I had a 92 Subaru Loyale that went 102K miles without smoking. On my 03 Outback, I started right out of the dealership with Mobil 1. No, it's not standard. I told them, and handed them the oil, to put it in before I took delivery of the car. Synthetic's also flow better at lower temperatures. Yes, you can get extended milage with them, but is your oil filter up to that challenge? If you use a K&N or similar, maybe. Syntehic is choice to go with a better quality oil to protect your investment, may it have four or less wheels. If you can't tell, I'm sold on snythetic oil.
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
^.v.^
Galactica06
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Suzuki V-Strom 650 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
Retired/Traded 2000 Vulcan 750 (First Bike)
Started Riding in 2003
^.v.^
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First problem is Mobil does not recommend Mobil 1 for motorcycles.
Second issue is does the new Mobil 1 contain molybdenum? Mobil will not answer my question on this. If it does then it would not be recommended for a wet clutch. Since I can't get a straight answer from Mobil I have stopped using it.
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
Goldwing 03
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
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I have heard a lot of people talk about the Rotella Synthetic. From what I can tell you have to watch for the key words incrased fuel economy. Something about oils with this have something in them that adversly effects wet clutches.
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
06 C-50
Just glad Alabama's winters are not too bad, allows great ridiing year round. It's always a good day for a ride rain or shine
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New Member
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quote:
Originally posted by torqueman
First problem is Mobil does not recommend Mobil 1 for motorcycles.
torqueman,
You got me. Sorry  , I was not endorsing Mobil 1 for motorcycles. I researched it and did not use Mobil 1 for the reasons you, and others stated. When I had my oil changed at my local shop, I asked for a recommendation between Castrol and another brand, of couse the name escapes me at this time, but I did use a synthetic.
I was using Mobil 1 as an example since I have had very good results with it in autos since 1984. Most of them were 2.0 L or under four cyclinders with automatics. I ran then at 65 - 90, about 3000 - 45000 rpm, on the highway and the motor's held together. This is some what comparable to the range of a motorcycle engine.
Sorry for any confusion. 
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
Started Riding in 2002
^.v.^
Galactica06
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Suzuki V-Strom 650 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
Retired/Traded 2000 Vulcan 750 (First Bike)
Started Riding in 2003
^.v.^
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NHVulcan750, it was not meant to be a slam or anything. I used to use the Mobil 1 car oil all the time. About a year or two ago they changed the formula and won't tell what the new formula has in it. Because of that I stopped using it.
I have heard good things about Rotella too but have not been able to find it. So I have been buying Honda oil for the Wing from Hondaonline at a good price.
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
Goldwing 03
Torqueman
Battle Creek, MI
V-Strom 06
Goldwing 03
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According to oil analysis I've had done by Blackstone Laboratories, Mobil 1 15W-50 contains about 50-60 PPM molybdenum disulphide, not enough for clutch problems in my opinion.
This number matches the moly content reported by MCN a few years back as well.
Hondas oil with moly contains about 200 - 300 PPM and it doesn't cause clutch problems in Hondas with shared transmission oil systems according to them. Some motorcycle oils contain as much as 1500 PPM of moly and they're recmomended for ALL motorcycles with shared lubrication of engine/transmission. In my experience moly improves shifting smoothness a bit compared to oils without it.
The MCN report I'm referring to was the first of two they did -- it was several years ago if I recall correctly.
Mobil 1's motorcycle oil contains only trace amounts of moly -- less than 10 PPM, but the additive package is phosphorus based rather than calcium/magnesium as in the car oil formulations. Phosphorus can be converted to Phosphoric acid under certain condition inside a motor, e.g. long drain intervals and high mileage.
Mobil 1 recommends the motorcycle oil as they make more profit on the stuff -- locally it's about $10 a quart vs. $5.69 for the car stuff.
The TBN of the car oil in 15W-50 weight is about 12 initially, the motorcycle oil starts life at a TBN of 9 or so. Using a TBN of 1 as the absolute minimum you can see the car oil may last longer.
I've had 15W-50 still show a TBN of 5.2 after 9,000 miles in a Suzuki Bandit 1200.
In my opinion the newest formulation fo Mobil 1 15W-50 is suitable for bikes. I've used that weight since 1982 in all it's iterations and had absolutely no problems with clutch slippage or damage.
I sold a Pacific Coast to a friend who equipped it with a trailer and headed out west with a chunky wife on the pillion. He reported clutch slippage, but it turned out to be sacked clutch springs which were only 36mm long vs. a minimum recommended length of 39mm. New springs from Barnett fixed the problem and that was at about 86K miles. NO problems since with Mobil 1 15W-50 and another 20K miles. I still see the bike and assist with the maintenance.
Gonpher Coughie.
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New Member
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Last Login: 6/6/2008 2:48:55 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by torqueman
NHVulcan750, it was not meant to be a slam or anything.
Torqueman
None taken, and thanks for the apology. I had temporary anmesia on the the two different Mobil 1's available.  rnielsen's discussion on the matter has been enlightening, but for the very reason of my motor and transmission sharing the same oil, I went with the non-Mobil synthetic. I'll probably stay with synthetic in both the motorcylce and car.  Now if I could just convince the other half  to allow me to put it in her truck .
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
Started Riding in 2002
^.v.^
Galactica06
Save gas and drive;
A Subaru in the winter
A Suzuki V-Strom 650 Spring, Summer, and Fall. :)
Retired/Traded 2000 Vulcan 750 (First Bike)
Started Riding in 2003
^.v.^
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