|
|
|
Starting Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 11/25/2008 7:04:57 PM
Posts: 25,
Visits: 31
|
|
| I have an '08 Honda VTX1300 but it keeps stalling. I know that the problem has to do with my use of the manual choke as the gas is good and the idle has been reset by the dealer. When I start off I will run it with the choke full open but because of the rumble it will slowly shut it back off. After running for about 10 minutes it will be fine and not stall, it is just that first darn 10 minutes. The dealer had said that if I run it too long then when you slow down the carb gets flooded and it will stall and this is exactly what seems to be happening. Should I boost up the idle a bit more? Or should I run it with less choke for a shorter timeframe since it is warmer out? Thanks for any help...
|
|
|
|
|
Junior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Yesterday @ 4:48:10 PM
Posts: 346,
Visits: 225
|
|
| Generally you should move the choke to a partial position when you start riding the bike. Full choke is used mostly for starting. If the choke knob moves toward closed on its own, you may find a plastic collar beneath the knob that can be tightened to put more friction on the choke control cable. That way the choke will stay in whatever position you choose. Be careful, it's plastic and easily broken. Full choke is usually to be avoided when riding as it often floods the engine and the extra gas dilutes the oil in the crankcase. I'm not sure if your bike is carbureted or fuel injected, but with a choke knob I suspect it's carbureted. When I had carbureted bikes I'd use full choke to start it, then back off about half way while I put on my helmet and gloves. Then, the choke was shut off and I took it easy for a couple of blocks until the engine would run smoothly. Hope that helps a bit. Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and going for a breakfast ride tomorrow.
|
|
|
|
|
Average Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 11/28/2008 3:22:23 PM
Posts: 793,
Visits: 286
|
|
| It's carbureted, with a Mikuni CV. That carb actually uses an enrichener, not a choke...but their effect and use is essentially the same. Tighten the knurled nut under the "choke" knob to stop it from adjusting itself, and don't obsess over exactly how long to run it...Every bike has a different choke use strategy, and that bike will change it's needs with atmospheric changes. Once you're moving, the choke's off(it's fuel metering passages are inactive just above idle anyway). I typically like a bike to able to idle without the choke after 5 munites or so. EPA-friendly factory lean settings tend to lead to longer choke use needs. The only actual fix is to tune the carb(jet kit, mixture adjustments, etc.) and a dealer will not do this. Adjusting the idle speed higher is just a bandaid for a lean mixture, and when it does warm up it'll idle way too high.
If I could walk like that, I wouldn't need a doctor.
|
|
|
|
|
Starting Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 11/25/2008 7:04:57 PM
Posts: 25,
Visits: 31
|
|
| Thanks guys, I will try what you suggested.
|
|
|
|
|
Average Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 1:09:10 PM
Posts: 982,
Visits: 963
|
|
rneilsen brings up a good point about full choke and flooding your engine with gas. After your bike has sat for a while any oil that was on the cylinder walls and pistons will drip down due to gravity. The longer the bike sits, the less oil residue will be on the metal parts. So when you start your engine you are starting up with very little oil in the combustion chamber. Then, with the choke on full, you are flooding your engine with gasoline and washing off what little oil remained.
It takes a little while for cold engine oil to start flowing efficiently so these "dry" starts probably cause more engine wear at startup than running your bike all day. Plus, it is important not to leave your bike on choke longer than the minimum time it takes to get it running smoothly.
What to do? Well, aside from never starting your bike, you could add something to your gas tank to provide some lubrication from the gas itself. I have talked to a number of mechanics who recommend putting a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil or even regular motor oil in with your gas.
Now, let me get this right - is it one down, four up?
|
|
|
|
|
Senior Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 2:47:23 AM
Posts: 1,172,
Visits: 938
|
|
| My H-D has a Mikuni....and the EPA specs had my motor spitting and sputtering for the first 10 miles...and the plugs were just about white. Burned out after 3-4000 miles. Re-jetted...end of problem. Also...an "enricher" (as oppsed somehow to a "choke")...and it does tend to pull itself in, I just hold it out until the motor can hold it's own idle...usually about 20-30 seconds, the I ride off (into the sunset or to work...whichever comes first). Be advised....any dealer will NOT re-jet...they are forbidden to by law, so will tell you anything (like "needs a tune-up). Aftermarket shops, however, don't seem to mind doing things like this...or you can do it yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
Average Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 11/25/2008 5:43:42 AM
Posts: 643,
Visits: 401
|
|
[b]Rootie (7/5/2008
What to do? Well, aside from never starting your bike, you could add something to your gas tank to provide some lubrication from the gas itself. I have talked to a number of mechanics who recommend putting a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil or even regular motor oil in with your gas.
Do not do this with an engine that has a catalytic converter, it is amazing how little oil it takes to kill one.
Gfurlo
|
|
|
| | |